Femininity is getting a rethink in Milan.
Highlights from Saturday’s shows, including Bottega Veneta, Roberto Cavalli, Jil Sander and Pucci:
BOTTEGA VENETA POP ART
Colors popped at Bottega Veneta: Emerald green, teal, yellow, russet, violet and orange, matching in tone and intensity the bold polka-dot patterns that dominated the runway for the first part of the show.
The repetitive dotting in contrasting colors would transpose easily into a Roy Lichtenstein painting — but the women wearing Tomas Maier’s creations show none of the existential distress that the pop artist normally portrayed.
She is confident in polka-dot tunics in teal or emerald green with a contemporary neck line that flips over to reveal contrasting colors. From bold, the looks grew more pretty with overlays of delicate black or rust lace over colorful
dresses, and Maier maintained the contemporary edge with transparent panels in overcoat that become a show-window of sorts to the eye-popping color of the daywear underneath. Capes had a trapezoidal shape, offset by streaks of color.
Maier anchored the collection with a pair of black suits set off by a crinkled silk scarf twisted around the neck — a stylistic gesture that conveys what Maier means by a “nonchalant sense of style.”
Jil Sander designer Rodolfo Paglialunga’s first winter womenswear collection for the brand put the coat at front and center — keeping the lines very long.
“Jil Sander represents a little bit of the elegant world for me, and that’s why I wanted to do this long silhouette,” Paglialunga said backstage after the show.
The collection puts its focus on the basics: pants, footwear and coats. Belted overcoats are worn casually over flared trousers. Dresses and tunics were based on the overcoat form, with big pockets and lean lines, adhering to the brand’s minimalist roots. Shorter jackets were worn with cropped trouser-skirts.
Geometric lines running diagonally or along garment edges underscored the discipline of the pieces.
What frivolity there was came in the form of color — bright orange booties or yellow knee boots — and subtle detailing like an orderly ruffle peeking out from a neckline.
For Paglialunga, it’s normal for women to wear men’s trousers, jackets and shirts.
“You need to know what to add on to make it more confident and elegant,” ” he said.
Roberto Cavalli isn’t about to give up his perch as designer to the sex bombs, no matter the trends around him and no matter what happens after the sale of the brand that has been showing in Milan for 20 years.
His collection for next winter was unapologetically sexy, from the exotic print mini-dress beneath a fur-lined overcoat to the last plisse gown with cutout diamond-shapes accentuating the waistline.
Few do red carpet gowns with more billow and bluster, and the newest creation comes in either a halter top or with feminine, blousy sleeves. The two-tone gown fades from powder blue to rock ‘n’ roll purple, or blue into rust for a psychedelic sunset.
Cavalli and his wife, Eva Dueringer, the driving forces behind the company, gave a quick wave to the crowd after the show —and not their usual full runway strut.
Cavalli is in the final stages of talks to sell a majority stake in the brand he founded and forged into one of the world’s best-known brands, favorites of such stars as Sharon Stone, and what role he will have under the new ownership is unclear.
CEO Daniele Corvasce told The Associated Press that Cavalli will stay on in the role of founding shareholder. But that doesn’t make clear what his creative role may be, something that has been gaining attention amid reports that other designers may be brought on board by the new owners.
“We will make announcements as soon as we have news or something to communicate,” Corvasce said.
With the negotiations entering due diligence, the sale could be completed in the coming weeks.